RepairAve.com RepairAve.com - free appliance repair help and troubleshooting
Appliance information center.
Free repair help and troubleshooting.
 
RepairAve.com - Appliance Information Center Free appliance repair help Trusted sources for appliance parts Repair, use & care, and installation manuals Appliance news Home improvement sites

Appliance Repair:

 - Washers
     Whirlpool
     Sears Kenmore
 - Dryers
 - Dishwashers
 - Refrigerators
 - Ovens, Ranges
 - Cooktops
 - Microwaves
 - Trash Compactors

 - Reading diagrams
 - Error codes

Appliance Info:

 - Model tag search
 - Sears prefixes
 
Enter your
model number
 
Whirlpool Washer Repair

Appliance repair > Washers > Whirlpool Washer > Testing/Replacing water level switch
 
READ THIS FIRST!
Warning! To avoid personal injury or death, always unplug the appliance or disconnect the power before attempting any repairs. Always turn off the gas at the source before repairing any gas appliance. Always wear safety glasses when using tools. Keep loose clothing and hair away from any moving parts. Safety is of major importance when performing any service or repair on any electrical appliance. By reading this page you state that you have read and agreed to RepairAve.com's Disclaimer and Terms of Use.

Testing and Replacing Water Level Switch
Whirlpool® washing machines (direct drive)

 
Testing and Replacing Water Level Switch
Instructions Illustrations
Water level switch, located inside the console, is used in controlling the amount of water entering the washer. There are different water levels, depending on the model you have. Selections might include "extra small", "small", "medium", "large" and "extra large", plus a "reset" option. Some models have a fixed water level switch. This allows for just one water level in the washer.

We'll need an Ohmmeter to test the water level switch. There are three color-coded wires going to this switch: violet (V), pink (P), and tan (T). The violet wire carries the current (electricity) from the timer to the water level switch. Contacts inside the switch send current back through either the pink wire, meaning an empty tub, or tan wire, meaning a full tub of water.
Before testing, lets do the following:

- First, disconnect power to the washer (or unplug it)
- Use the Removing washer cabinet article to help you get to the switch.

Testing with empty tub
(for testing with a full tub of water, see below)

1. Remove one wire at a time, carefully labeling each wire according to the terminal marking on the water level switch. This procedure should assure that the right wire is reconnected to the right terminal.

2. Set the ohmmeter scale to the lowest ohms setting and ZERO the meter.

3. Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal V.

4. Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal P.

5. The ohmmeter should show ZERO resistance (continuity). If not, the water level switch is bad and needs to be replaced.

6. Touch and hold one ohmmeter prove to the terminal V.

7. Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal T.

8. The ohmmeter should show an open circuit (no continuity) when checking these two terminals. If not, the water level switch is bad and needs to be replaced.
To find the right water level switch for your washer, enter the washer model number below
(where is the model number?)
 
Find your part:
Testing with a full tub of water

1. Remove one wire at a time, carefully labeling each wire according to the terminal marking on the water level switch. This procedure should assure that the right wire is reconnected to the right terminal.

2. Set the ohmmeter scale to the lowest ohms setting and ZERO the meter.

3. Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal V.

4. Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal T.

5. The ohmmeter should show ZERO resistance (continuity). If not, the water level switch is bad and needs to be replaced.

6. Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal V.

7. Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal P.

8. The ohmmeter should show an open circuit (no continuity) when checking these two terminals. If not, the water level switch is bad and needs to be replaced.

Note: If you checked the water level switch with a full tub of water first, the water left in the tub must be emptied by hand.

 - Troubleshooting guide
 
 - How washers work
 - Removing washer cabinet (Taking your washer apart)
 - Replacing timer knob
 - Testing/Replacing water level switch
 - Testing/Replacing water inlet valve
 - Replacing water inlet hoses
 - Repairing agitator problems
 - Replacing drive block
 - Checking/Replacing water pump
 - Testing/Replacing motor switch
 - Checking/Replacing motor drive coupling
 - Testing/Replacing washer drive motor
 
 If your problem is not listed, try this site.

 
Find your part:
RepairAve.com | Free appliance repair and troubleshooting | Appliance parts | Manuals | Appliance news | Directory | Site map | Links

Disclaimer & Terms of use | Contact us | Refer this page | Advertise with us

Copyright ©2006 RepairAve.com. All rights reserved.